16 July - 30 October 2020
RAY OF LIGHT
Editorial
Edition 87
24.07.2020
2021-22 autumn/winter
In an era where all certainty has vanished, where every rule is unexpected, and where it’s impossible to predict how long something will last, we feel the urgency to send a message of hope through a creative vision that motivates new reflections and renewals. A message of light and warmth to what is the darkest time of the year, the winter. Warmth and light are two primary needs, which find satisfaction in the nourishment provided by art and mysticism. Humankind has always shown a need to come out of the dark through tools of physical and spiritual enlightenment. Art is certainly a means of enlightenment and inner and outer beauty. The trends will offer a visionary overview of the history of sacred and modern art that looks back on the lives and works of spiritual figures, who over the course of their lives have indicated the right path towards light.
The Benedictine motto that searches for absolute equilibrium between action and meditation will be the starting point for reinterpreting classic wear, both in its shapes and colors. The most formal and urban fashion, that is almost designed for the office, is softened, becoming more fluid in its lines. The men’s wardrobe takes on a monastic mood that does not forego the precision of lines, but rather softens volumes with simplistic cuts, reducing details, and refining the overall look through fastenings and buttonings. Valuable grey tints, tone-on-tone, come to life through graphic lines that contrast with materials. Cultural signs distant in space and time translate pinstripes and men’s fantasies into mystical signs and modern esotericism. An urban gothic mood characterizes the more youthful part of this theme. Although black has a generalized importance in fashion, allowing for great experimental freedom with shapes and materials, the color card is expressed through a scale of greys that reflects an urban vision of natural materials connected to stone and to mineral architectural mixes. It begins from an almost blackish-blue and proceeds towards a light blue, passing from warm to cold grey tones. The choice of fine and unique yarns, in a chiaroscuro vision, emphasizes the rarest color in nature: violet.
The yarns are mostly constructed with natural and luxury fibers like cashmere and extra fine merinos wool; the dark tones of the color range are lit up by the inclusion in the structure of filaments in synthetic glossy fibers. 

The yarns in solid or mélange colors are rather linear, and the stitches are intersected by clear flashes of polyester that create reflections of light / shadows on the surfaces.

Yarns with optical and subtle effects in grisaille are made with mixed blends that combine warm fibers with cooler ones, like noble linen. This blending conveys a semidry hand to the knit, recalling the feel of cement and stone used in the modern construction of cult places. 

Stitches are micro-constructions in honeycomb, moss stitch, stripes, checks, and jacquard, taking their inspiration from the religious symbols of international faiths. Stitches can be made with a geometric-architectural theme.
An ode to nature, in the Franciscan vision, becomes the ideal tool for reinterpreting in a sustainable key the purity of materials, emphasizing non-dye concepts, as well as the source and origins of raw materials. A serene and peaceful fashion that ignites the tones of the previous theme, bringing back a color card of warm natural tones. The shapes are wide, generous, and free of frills. Knits are stripped free of everything that is superfluous and become simplistic. The only exception are pleats, represented by three-dimensional ribbing and copious gatherings. Large swathes hold sweaters in place on the body. The smallest knit accessories like micro-capes and crop top hoodies can be worn in layers. Mystical disorder is emphasized by drapings and spontaneous fluid lines. A technical and outdoor sense will characterize the sportier part of this theme, for life in the outdoors. A new sense of luxury will be expressed in terms of quality, sustainability, and simplicity.
The yarns produced with attention to eco-sustainability are the protagonists in creating the knits of this theme. In the search for yarns suited to this concept, the recycling of various fibers should be taken into consideration, alongside the methods of raising and taking care of animals, and specific controls along the entire supply chain.

The feel of the yarns must recall the coats and skins of fauna, so with suede effects, a fuzzy feel, and feathery with a preference for softness and a velvety hand. The direction is that of simplicity and stitches that borrow woven textures from sackcloth and wicker or imitate the fleece of goats, sheep, and the plumage of birds.  

The fibers used are alpaca, mohair, camel hair, and angora processed on their own or in blends. The structures of the yarns are chenille, shot, bouclé, raw ribbon, and candlewick in gauges that range from fine to thick so knits can be woven by hand.  

Flanking these yarns with elasticized yarns leads to the creation of sportier knits with lightweight padded effects.
A sacred and sublime spirit of elevation, extremely sophisticated and exquisite, will characterize this theme that is inspired by the most striking sacred icons in the history of both Italian and international art. The sense of draping in volumes and colors, presented upon a nude-effect, will convey a divine look to knits for the coming winter. Pleats, gatherings, and ruffles depicted in the paintings of great maestros, will take life by exiting the canvas to become wearable volumes or details for extremely adherent knits. The sense of decoration present in paintings leaves wide room for a lyrical and extremely valuable minimalism, where also the use of color will be completely symbolic and abstract. Religious. The sculpture-like quality of textiles in oil and encaustic paintings will translate into large voluminous knits, which are minimal with a compact and consistent hand. The lines are simplistic, yet majestic. The colors are borrowed from masterpieces in Italian painting, while the choice of tones is emphasized by warm gold that conveys even greater richness and majesty to the color card.
The most versatile fiber to make these elements genuine is virgin wool in its most valuable version with some structural support provided by other fibers where it’s deemed necessary.

To obtain malleable knits and create sculpted effects like folds and pleating, fine elasticized chenille in glossy wool is needed.  

Drapings in three-dimensional gauze can be created through fine twisted wools reinforced with polyamide. 

Metalized wools with the addition of glossy fibers in the blend, interpret the leading gold color of this theme. In alternative, wool can be completely laminated, in a version that imitates genuine gold leaf. 

The viscosity of oil paintings inspires the use of slippery and shiny threads like wool/viscose, while the dryness of the plaster of frescos suggests the use of powdery yarns – wool/cotton – in stitches that resemble the weave of canvases used as the base for paintings.   

Yarns that present glossy/matte effects underline the lights and shadows, representing an integral part of religious paintings.
Sensual and mysterious, the knit breaks into this theme conveying a sense of opulence through plays of veiling and unveiling, both precious and extremely sophisticated. Modesty fashion, to which we will dedicate a lot of attention in the future, as is already being done by many global brands in the development of their products designed for the Arabian world, is one of the fashion segments registering the most amount of growth. A fashion statement that will come across with great splendor and richness, emphasizing individuals and their status. A kind of fashion understood as a wonderful jewel-box that holds the most precious item of all, the ability to capture the eye. The knit will be matched with trouser skirts, overcoats, gloves, scarves, and berets. A bona fide obsession for detail goes into dressing every inch of the body. Sparkling micro-patterns, embroideries, and processes that are almost from the world of jewelry will transform knits into incredibly sophisticated textures. Mock solids are multifaceted and extremely fine. In its lightest version, knitwear will disappear becoming a veil, while remaining valuable in its materials and bright in its surfaces. The colors of Arabic miniatures will stand out in a color card embellished by cold gold and greenish-gold.
Silk, in its most precious version, is the fiber that best represents this mystical theme. Yarns derived from this fiber are bona fide micro patterns that play around with structures and diminishing and contrasting tones. They are extremely experimental and sophisticated yarns. 

Sometimes the yarns are structured with a lightly shot surface that creates a moiré effect in the knit, while knits with multiple layers are developed with crêpe and glossy gauze, and sometimes even the inclusion of rhinestones in the structure of the yarn itself.

Chenille in glossy silk is rich and luxurious, conveying a clear chiaroscuro look to the stitches. 

Vrillé-structured yarns are made up by metallic filaments and silky threads, creating a sparkling dotted effect.

More complex yarns combine tubular and spiral effects and are ideal for use in constructing sculpted stitches.

Middle Eastern-styled lace and jacquard are developed in yarns that combine Tussah silk and Mulberry silk in linear and basic structures, which highlight the design.
The sun is genuine nourishment for the body and mind. The tale is that of meditating Buddhist monks who have survived isolation and a lack of sustenance thanks to their daily exposure to the sun’s warm rays. Winter is also the period when physically and psychologically we feel the greatest need to recharge ourselves, by exposing ourselves to the warmth that only the sun can give us. Always in terms of the healthy benefits of sunlight, we will thank the star that makes life on Earth possible, a cult object of veneration in mythology and religion. The colors of the card are represented by orange tones right up to dark red, passing through peach and burnished yellow, both light and dark. Sunny and Tibetan colors, for knits that combine the springy agility of drapings in aerial yoga with the precise casualness of the twists typical of monk’s habits. Knits that blend tradition with technical elements in unexpected material and surface hybrids. The theme will instill a sense of great completeness and satisfaction in terms of sight and touch, with extremely warm and comfortable fibers that will translate the feeling of sunlight on the skin into knits for wearing.
The yarns of this theme go in two directions: pure and natural for processing together with technical yarns or genuine hybrids, combining warm and wintery natural yarns with synthetic high-performance fibers. Carded wool encounters elasticized polyester, mohair blends with nylon, angora comes together with waterproof polyurethane. The dyeing is never clean, but always shaded, graduated, and stained. 

These yarns present themselves in all gauges, from fine ones used to create ultra-fine knits for draping, or padded ones for the more sports-oriented knitwear, to the thickest gauges for outdoor knitwear.

The structures of the yarns are multiple: micro tweed in graduated colors, chaînette printed in stripes.
Fuzzy yarns are sprayed in dégradé.   

Matte knop yarns are twisted with glossy filaments. Candlewick yarns are defibered and soft. Colored wools are ready to be faded after being sewn.

Subsequent treatments make the knits waterproof, grainy, or slippery.
The theme of the body in defining up-and-coming trends, among others, plays a pivotal role. The theme of identity is central in sacred, mythological, and religious iconography. The mystical transfiguration of the body in Hindu iconography offers extraordinary visionary insight onto what the body represents today in fashion and what it is becoming. Inclusion, diversity, and fluidity are among the most important aspects socially and in costume. Genderless is no longer a trend, but an increasingly established reality to which we dedicate collections and wearability designed ad hoc. A body that is increasingly less masculine and more feminine. A spiritual and mystical body. An enchanted and joyful celebration of the senses that will restore an image of a completely fluid fashion, made up by extraordinary and elusive hybrid surfaces. Exotic and esoteric, the body is a tool of experimentation without borders or boundaries. A medium for communicating messages of equality and non-discrimination. A bewitching concept of beauty that is liberated from all conventions. A mystical beauty. The bright colors of this card are inspired by the images of Indian culture.
Leading the way are yarns constructed with synthetic polyamide and polyester fibers in this transgender and whimsical theme. Yarns range from thick and fantasy ones to those that are extremely fine and most particular. Colors remain tone-on-tone, since the knits themselves should be represented by a patchwork of surfaces and blending of yarns, which differ from one another in both type and structure.

The touch varies from plasticky to slipper, rubbery, soapy, and spongy. 

The structures range from ribbon yarns in cellophane to interwoven filaments with fringe-effect tufts, wavy yarns with micro polka dots that are transparent in their composition, metallic yarns with sequins for outlining arcane designs, and lacquered tubular yarns for constructing open meshes. 

Laminated yarns emanate holographic light in wavy gauze.
Research curated by Angelo Figus and Nicola Miller