BODY OF LIGHT
is the theme of the new Spazio Ricerca
Editorial
Edition 97
28.11.2024
P/E 2026
To be honest, we weren’t expecting this; some people are experiencing this moment with surprise, others with worry and disappointment. We thought we were in for a recovery and unlimited growth. We thought we had embarked upon the road to a new and never-ending El Dorado. But everything had to change: speed, quality. The way we perceive time, bodies, values; the importance of love and close relationships. 

There are two ongoing trends we should pause to reflect on: the pulverizing of all our energy and efforts in the name of actions of no global relevance which – like a whirlpool - are dragging us down, and the distant and unachievable yearning for almost dystopian visions that is spinning us far away from our current position. 

Body of Light, the title-theme of the new Spazio Ricerca curated by Angelo Figus, Carrie Hollands and Manuela Sandroni, is an invitationIt to find new tools to help us look more objectively at reality without misunderstanding what is going on around us. 

Science and rational thought may not be enough to explain our current state and how we see, experience and feel things. We need to start acquiring a broader and more complete vision, using additional, complementary and different cognitive processes. The materialistic viewpoint is our biggest limit, even when it comes to selling new products. Our companies are not just workplaces, they are spiritual entities. Our products are also spiritual beings, or elementals. The quest for light sums up the spirit of the latest trends which are focused on three aspects to be studied, each of which correspond to different ways of feeling and behaving. 
THE PHYSICAL BODY
This theme observes the material body in its most intimate and extraordinary dimension: by placing vegetable, human, animal and mineral nature under the microscope, exceptional and phenomenal landscapes and patterns are revealed which are orderly but organic. The formation is rational but the designs and shapes are spontaneous. These visions will inspire new and original interpretations of the more classical and recognizable knitwear patterns, that have never been seen before.

The view through the microscope shows similarities and possible comparisons which can be used to freely reinterpret checks, argyles, cable and classical knitwear and fabric stitches. The theme features lightweight and complex knits, textured and raised laces and meshes subjected to big or small processing in net contrast with open and airy surfaces to offer a mix of summer and winter yarns. Raw, irregular yarns which are typically cool and summery like cotton, linen and hemp coexist with wools that can even be hairy, like alpaca and mohair. This is visible in the structure of the stitches as well as in the embroidery and decorative details which supplement and complete the overall vision to provide a more complex effect. Open structures alternate light, irregular yarns with an essential feel with full-bodied looks used to create "touches" and "structures" for carded and worsted wools, rounded cordonettes, ribbons, flat and malfilé yarns.

The color chart is inspired by the dyes added to slides to obtain contrasting views of the elements in the thin slice of material to be analyzed under the microscope. Dyes that highlight the shapes and components.
THE SUBTLE BODY
The subtle body is the boundary between the physical body and the space that contains it and can be defined as the Aura. Not everyone can see it: those who can describe it as a light that “encloses the body, lightly and hazily surrounding it in an irregular manner, a kind of energy that illuminates the volume and contours of the body itself”.

Art provides interesting visions of auras, representing and suggesting them through backlighting which is used, more than any other technique, to define the subtle space that separates the physical body from spatial volume. Kirlian photography is also an exciting tool for imagining knits that cover up or are transparent, exalting little hints of color and a sophisticated iridescence, creating surfaces that look like brushstrokes, generating chiaroscuro effects for knits that follow the anatomy of shapes in a blurred tactile way. Soft and delicate surfaces. The theme magnifies the native qualities of the rich, precious yet completely natural yarns; glossy/matte/ transparent/opaque/thin/heavy contrasts. The theme of the natural yarns is both anatomical and pictorial.

The knits in this theme extol the virtues of fine and very fine wools. They emphasize the importance of trans-seasonal garments, opening the fall season and going on to become lightweight pieces to wear below the jacket in winter. Fine wool gauzes, crepe worked on machines with a bigger gauge than the yarn to obtain greater transparency and irregularity, wool/silk blends for a satiny fluidity. The dynamic visual effect is created by overlapping quality veiled yarns: especially silks, either pure or blended. The color chart is inspired by significant backlit paintings; the shades are based on a light that creates elusive colored shadows and downy effects on the body and on the spatial view.
THE SPIRITUAL BODY
A theme that sees space as a place that holds everything.

A superior dimension linked to the spirit which encompasses everything and in which everything has a part. Luminescence, brightness and brilliance are the key elements that express the meaning of this research. The theme is expressed in highly sophisticated, elegant, sparkling and valuable knits. They shine with their own light, with radiant and metalized effects even in the gradation of colors; their pulsating luminous presence is emphasized by concentric graphics. They use light to establish a connection between physical and celestial bodies. Not just elegant and precious knits, but technical ones to satisfy the need for fusion and wellbeing. Sporty knits and small garments made in vibrantly colored nylon, lamé, using iridescent or metallic yarns; the lights of natural crystals embellish the yarns through unusual and sophisticated pearls and sequins, small touches to the threads capture the luminous irregularity of the crystals. Contrasting matches of yarns with wools and cottons with technical features: water repellent, thermoplastic, as well as specific properties for spiritual and meditative practices. Properties which will give a highperformance comfort to even the more elegant and less sporty apparel.

The color chart is inspired by the colored light emitted by celestial bodies. Electric pastels glorifying two shades of purple – a very important color for next season – the most spiritual color of them all. Transmitting a pulsating energy which is captured in the distance by telescopes that offer a glimpse into the beyond. The light captured by the celestial bodies is fragmented just like in a kaleidoscope.